Brand-specific tailoring terminology for your next in-store fit-out, as told by M.J. Bale’s Victorian State Manager and sartorial specialist, Zorak North.

Drop 8:

“Drop” refers to the jacket chest to jacket waist ratio. A Drop 8 specifically indicates that there is a greater difference in the chest to waist sizing – as such, a slimmer fit.

Drop 7:

As with Drop 8, a Drop 7 indicates that the ratio between the jacket chest to jacket waist is less dramatic and subsequently delivers a more relaxed fit.

Decon:

Decon is an abbreviation of ‘Deconstructed,’ which refers to a jacket which has been made without lining and shoulder pads. A decon jacket lends a less formal look while still presenting a tailored aesthetic. A decon suit is perfect for warmer seasons/climates as it removes surplus layers. In terms of craftsmanship, a decon jacket is more time consuming to produce as the internal seams are all finished, whereas they ordinarily wouldn’t be.

Break:

Break is the term used to describe how your trouser hem ‘breaks’ across the forefoot. Traditionally, your trouser should break just once and cleanly at the ankle.

Cuffs:

A cuff is a trouser hem which is sewn back up on itself to give an extra finish around the ankle and provide further weight. Traditionally, a cuff is not appropriate to wear with a tuxedo.

Inseam:

The inseam is a measurement of the trouser from the crotch down to the hem. 

Rise:

The Rise is the measurement of the trouser from the crotch to the waist band. This measurement determines whether the trouser is high- or low-waisted.

Vents:

Vents are the slits at the rear of a jacket which allow a greater range of movement through the hips and seat. Typically, M.J. Bale jackets will have a single vent down the back or double vent at each hip.

Surgeon’s Cuffs:

Sometimes referred to as a ‘working sleeve, surgeon’s cuffs indicates a jacket sleeve with functional buttons sewn on that can be opened. It’s a throwback to the 19th century, when army surgeons would roll back their sleeves to operate in the field. This is a much more traditional method of jacket production and requires a great deal of craftsmanship and time.

Half Canvas:

Refers to the internal construction of the jacket front, in which a canvas panel of horse hair and other natural fibres are woven together then sewn into the jacket’s upper chest panel and lapel to provide greater structure, drape and breathability. Typically, a half canvas jacket is lighter in weight and less structured than a full canvas jacket.

Full Canvas:

Full Canvas construction also provides an internal panel, however, in this case,it extends further down the jacket front providing more structure and weight. Over time, canvas construction will mould to your body shape, thereby providing more individual fit. Canvas construction is the traditional method of jacket production and is time intensive.

Mill Label:

Inside the jacket of many M.J. Bale suits you’ll find a label that indicates where the fabric was woven – specifically, from which textile mill. This label is our means of communicating to customers the provenance and quality of fabric. In most cases, our partner mills have been in operation for centuries and are considered the most prestigious in the world.

Tuxedo:

A tuxedo AKA black tie is a formal suit typically worn for weddings and formal dinners and galas. The most identifying feature of a tuxedo is the satin lapel and matching satin covered buttons as a contrast fabric to the main body fabric. Traditionally, tuxedos will be black, midnight navy or white (worn as ‘white tie’)